Lisanne Sambo-Gomez calls her grandmother, Maria de los Remedios Gomez-Hieroms, "Dudu." The word "Dudu" is not just a name, but also an expression of love and tenderness, representing a grandmother full of affection for her grandchildren. Although Dudu passed away in 2002, her legacy lives on through her family, her kitchen, and her famous pandushi. This is a glimpse into Dudu’s life and passion, as told by her granddaughter, Lisanne, who has now revived the beloved pandushi under the beautiful name in honor of her grandmother: PANDUSHI DI MEME.
Lisanne was the youngest of Dudu’s 24 grandchildren. "My parents went to study and later lived in the Netherlands. That’s where my two brothers were born. So, I didn’t grow up close to my grandmother, but from the moment I was aware, she was very 'present' even from a distance." Though the distance was great, Dudu always ensured her grandchildren in the Netherlands could feel her love. She would send gifts, clothes, shoes, and delicious homemade foods like croquettes, pastechi, spring rolls, and of course, her famous Pandushi. 🍞 Since she had many Pandushi customers, there was always someone traveling to the Netherlands who could do the favor of bringing her flavors to those of us who were in the Netherlands. That’s how, from a young age, I became very familiar with the flavors she created in her kitchen in Aruba.
“When I was 11, we returned to live in Aruba. My grandmother was happy, and we spent every day by her side,” Lisanne recounts. By then, Dudu was older, and she enjoyed sitting beside her all afternoon, talking and listening to stories from times Lisanne did not know.
All this while one of her grandmother’s daughters was always working in the kitchen, preparing pastechi, croquettes, spring rolls, Pan Dushi, and other dishes, with a jar of pickled cod, salmon, egg, vegetables, or pork always on the kitchen table. One thing is certain, none of these flavors were ever missing at Wilhelminastraat 66. Dudu also made condensed milk preserves, cookies, cakes, and countless other dishes. Her grandchildren also remember her for her chicken salad with spice, soups, and stuffed cabbage. My cousins remember how she made little pan dushi especially for each of them, ensuring everyone got one, still hot from the oven.
"A memory I have is that I was close to him one day before he turned 88 in 1996. We were talking and laughing, and I told him I found it amusing that when we were living in the Netherlands and celebrating birthdays, my other aunts would send piñatas, bags, and decorations all based on a theme for us to celebrate. Dudu, during his turn, said that in his 88 years, he had never seen a piñata, but he gives us, his grandchildren, everything." I said, 'Okay, that will change today,' and I spent the night making her a piñata with '88' on it. The next morning, we celebrated her 88th birthday in the living room at Wilhelminastraat 66 with a piñata. My uncle made sure there was music, and everyone came by to enjoy the snacks and food prepared by my aunts. It was a beautiful day, and her smile was unforgettable. Sadly, old age came with dementia, and little by little, she no longer recognized us. Many times, she would 'relive' days from the past, telling us about events that, in her mind, were happening. Her appetite was always intact, and she enjoyed a good meal, pandushi, or the intensely flavored croquettes my aunt made following her recipe."
Describe your grandmother in three words?
Affectionate and attentive
Spoils their grandchildren
Does everything for their family
What do you remember most about the time your grandmother spent in the kitchen making Pan Dushi?
"I didn’t experience my grandmother in her glory days when she made and delivered Pandushi daily. My cousins tell stories of how she had a room where she made pastechi with the help of Angela (a respected aunt) and others. They would often hear her shout, ‘Don’t let the Pan Dushi burn!’ It was a well-organized operation, carried out with seriousness and dedication. When the Pandushi was ready, the grandchildren had to deliver it to all the clients in town. The grandchildren couldn’t stray far from Masy Fral or Brenchie, and they had to deliver to streets like Peña, Nicky Habibe, van Dorp, de Wit, La Gran Bodega, Landsloterij, Zepp Wever, and many more! One of my cousins even says that while buying paper bags at Brenchie’s for my grandmother’s Pandushi, she met the love of her life, and now they’ve been together for 47 years."
What did the house smell like when your grandmother was baking pandushi?
"It’s a combination of different aromas mixed with various fruits. It’s hard to describe, but to this day, when I close my eyes, I can recognize the sweet smell. It’s what I use as my guide when I make pandushi."
Did you ever help your grandmother when she was making Pandushi?
"Sadly, I never made Pandushi with my grandmother, though I must say that every time I make it and braid the dough, I feel surrounded by her warmth and love."
What motivated you to try recreating this recipe? Did anyone else in your family try as well?
"My aunts always helped my grandmother, and I have cousins who also know how to make it. We’ve gathered to make pandushi to eat together, very enjoyable, filled with laughter and lively conversations. From the moment I decided to try making Pandushi, I talked with my cousins, I brought them together, and I myself started trying to make it, and sometimes things went wrong. But by continuing to try each time, I would discover something new in the process and understand more and more how the process works. It gives me a sense of peace to sit at the table, braid the dough, and make each piece of Pandushi with love."
What did you do to bring your grandmother's Pan Dushi recipe back to life?
"I love the nostalgia, it makes me feel closer to my grandmother and those times when we were together at her house. I was studying in the Netherlands when I received the call that she had passed away; this was very hard for me, especially because at the moment it happened, I was far away. Since January of this year, after working for 17 years as a teacher in education, I decided to continue with my company: Realign, where I guide students and professionals in various aspects such as career choice tests, profile tests, and educational consultancy. I have a great passion for my work, and I made sure that the new setup of my work gives me the opportunity to create moments for what my heart loves: making Pandushi. I created a simple logo with Dudu’s name because she is known for 'Meme’s Pandushi' and printed it so that each Pandushi can carry not only the flavor but also a bit of the tradition back to their home, office, workplace, or friendship circle."
What part of the Pandushi recipe do you find the most difficult to recreate? What is the secret to getting the same taste your grandmother had?
"Getting the taste was hard because, back in the day, they didn’t really measure, so even though the recipe was good, sometimes the quantities weren’t quite right. Little by little, I’ve come to understand this. I always use my sense of smell as a guide. When the smell matches my memory, I know it’s right. The more I make it, the more it becomes second nature."
How many variations of Pan Dushi did your grandmother make, and which was your favorite?
"My grandmother made Pandushi with jam (which she made herself from different fruits) and without jam. For special occasions, she would even decorate them with red and green cherries 😉. My favorite is still the one with jam, perfect alongside coffee or tea, and of course, it has to be hot, fresh from the oven."
What made your grandmother's Pandushi different and so loved?
"It’s the only Pandushi in Aruba filled with fruit and jam. My grandmother didn’t believe in being cheap with ingredients, so her Pandushi was literally packed with fruit and other ingredients, making it heavier than the ones we know today—but super delicious on its own or with cheese too."
What do people who got to taste your grandmother's Pan Dushi tell you about it?
"Everyone who lived in town, especially the big neighbors on Wilhelminastraat, remembers this Pandushi. They always said, ‘You won’t find that Pandushi anywhere else.’ Recently, I’ve met people who remember it, and I’ve brought it to them. Their excitement and reaction when they say it tastes 'just the same' as my grandmother’s fills me with pride and joy, knowing I’m continuing one of her traditions."
“One cherished memory I have is from the last time I saw my grandmother (just an hour before I boarded a plane to the Netherlands for my studies). I was sitting next to her in one of my aunt’s houses (which is now my house). By then, she had long stopped recognizing people. I was talking to her, and the time came to say goodbye. I had a hard time with it, tears streaming from my eyes. I looked at her face and said, 'Dudu, till later. Dudu, do you know who I am?' She looked at me, and I expected nothing in response. Then, she said, 'Of course I know, you’re Lisanne, my beautiful granddaughter,' and within a second, she was gone again. That was her farewell to me. I’ll forever be grateful for that moment, which I’ll treasure for always.”
I love sharing these stories and recipes with my children (who also love cooking and want to help me braid Pandushi). It makes me happy that in this way, I can keep this alive and bring the taste and joy that Dudu brought to us and so many others."
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